The Final Statement of the 82nd Plenary Meeting of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), which took place in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, from September 30 to October 3, 2024, has been made public. The Arabic, French, Russian, and Spanish translations of the Final Statement are now underway and will be made available on www.icac.org in the days ahead.
Introduction and Summary of the Plenary Meeting
“Global Partnerships to Promote Innovation in the Cotton and Textile Value Chains” The 82nd Plenary Meeting of the ICAC since its founding in 1939 took place in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, from September 30 to October 3, 2024. Representatives from 15 Member states, nine international organisations, and seven non-member nations were among the 460 attendees.
Executive Director’s Report from the ICAC Secretariat:
Discussions regarding ICAC’s data and publications, record-high participation in the Committee on Commercial Standardisation of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC), agricultural development projects, textiles, sustainability, and policy engagement to give cotton and other natural fibres a voice were among the accomplishments and future work highlighted in the report. These initiatives included extensive discussions with business sector players through the business Sector Advisory Council’s (PSAC) operations, as well as the development and reinforcement of cooperative partnerships across the global cotton textile value chain. Along with highlighting efforts to collaborate with Member nations on cotton textile value-chain development and investment, the Executive Director also highlighted a number of significant events, including co-organizing the inaugural World Cotton Day in Africa and the ICAC Plenary and World Cotton Research Conference.
The necessity for cotton-producing nations to transition from exporting raw cotton to building robust textile value chains in order to unleash enormous economic potential and create jobs is highlighted by the development of textile value chains in cotton-rich nations. By converting $1 of raw cotton into $10 of high-value goods, value addition may contribute to the creation of millions of employment. A strong textile industry depends on the establishment of textile parks, the availability of reasonably priced finance, and the acquisition of dependable energy sources. As member nations seek to create these value chains, ICAC has begun to offer assistance.
Gene Editing in Cotton Farming: The discussion demonstrated how regenerative agriculture and gene editing may be used to improve cotton yield and solve climate-related issues. The integration of advanced technologies such as Clustered Regularly Interspaced Short Palindromic Repeats (CRISPR) and RNA interference (RNAi), combined with a focus on soil health, offers powerful tools for improving cotton farming’s resilience, efficiency, and sustainability. These innovations have the potential to improve crop yields while supporting farmers in adapting to climate change by reducing greenhouse gas emissions and water and fertilizer use.
World Cotton Market: The 2023–2024 season’s key takeaways include a decline in worldwide cotton output and a rise in demand, which will result in a reduction in global ending inventories. It is anticipated that output would somewhat lag behind demand in the forthcoming 2024–2025 season. Global cotton inventories might rise as a result, particularly if demand continues to decline. Overall, it is projected that mill use would continue to decline globally, which will keep prices low throughout the 2024–2025 season. Cotton prices may decline if global ending stockpiles rise in the absence of a recovery in demand.
The 2023–2024 season, when global markets stabilised and inflation decreased, was covered in detail in the World Cotton Trade and Speciality Cotton Report. Notably, worldwide consumption rose by 5.67%, and for the first time, Brazil overtook the United States as the world’s largest exporter. Specialty cotton now accounts for about 31% of global production, identity programs for 29%, and long- and extra-long staple cotton increased by 46%, mostly in Egypt, China, the USA, and India, with all four countries posting increases in production in 2022/23.
Global Textile Fibre Demand: Growing populations and affluence are the main drivers of the long-term expansion in fibre demand. The demand for cotton has decreased recently, while synthetic fibres have grown significantly since they are more affordable and versatile. Cotton’s competitiveness has also been adversely affected by price volatility, suggesting a slow reduction in cotton’s market share. Between geopolitical concerns, increasing environmental regulations, sustainability requirements, and a booming resale and secondhand clothing market, it’s clear we are in a transformative period for the industry, with far-reaching implications for future fiber demand and market trends.
Dr. Keerti Rathore of Texas A&M University, whose work on the CRISPR/Cas9 system is acknowledged all over the world, and Dr. David Fang of the US Department of Agriculture (USDA), a pioneer in cotton fibre technology, were named ICAC Researchers of the Year. The ICAC and all others who have contributed to their study over the years were acknowledged by both scientists.
Reports by Country
The way that ICAC handles Country Reports promotes greater communication and debate. The ICAC changed its Country Reports format last year in an effort to promote greater engagement and dialogue. In preparation of the Plenary, members and international organisations were invited to submit in-depth reports to the Secretariat, which were then made available on the ICAC website. India, the United States, Turkey, Côte d’Ivoire, Egypt, Taiwan, South Africa, the European Union, and Kenya submitted the reports to the ICAC.
Increasing Openness
Using Digitisation to Build Trust: Transparency and traceability will unavoidably be essential to promoting sustainable cotton production. To satisfy growing consumer expectations about social and environmental implications and new legal requirements, there is a need for international cooperation, fair legislation, and creative technical solutions. The future of cotton lies in a transparent, traceable, and sustainable supply chain that meets market demand by supporting ethical production and fair trade.
The Function of Cotton in Combating Climate Change
The potential for absorbing and storing carbon to slow down climate change is enormous, if not revolutionary, thanks to regenerative cotton cultivation. From transgenic technology to specially designed agricultural methods, a number of creative alternatives are being researched. To fully realise the promise of regenerative agriculture in enhancing sustainability and resilience in cotton agricultural systems, cooperation between farmers, researchers, and institutions is required. The problems caused by climate change in cotton production can be solved via breeding, genetics, and genomics. It will require international collaboration, innovative technologies, and utilizing the genetic diversity of wild species to enhance cotton resilience and sustainability in the face of global climate challenges.
Evaluating Competitors in the Cotton and Fibre Market
There are increasing market demands for sustainability and transparency as well as regulatory concerns. There are several key areas where the cotton industry must innovate, including quality standardization, integration with synthetic fibers, sustainable dyeing practices, and competitive marketing strategies. It is critical to adapt to new regulatory requirements and consumer preferences to maintain cotton’s relevance in the global market, and continue research and development in cotton processing, focusing on blending technologies, spinning efficiency, and environmental sustainability. It is crucial to enhance global collaboration to promote certified sustainable cotton programs and improve market access for organic and recycled cotton, as well as engage in strategic marketing campaigns to improve cotton’s image — particularly regarding its environmental benefits and recyclability.
PSAC Recommendations on Building Traceability
- The Private Sector Advisory Council (PSAC) during the year studied proposed and existing regulations surrounding the reporting of traceability of fibers and any differences in the requirements for man-made fibers and for cotton. Based on multiple presentations organized by the PSAC from various experts throughout 2024, all four PSAC committees debated this topic. Based on these discussions, the PSAC Executive Committee has compiled a PSAC final statement for the year 2024: “The finding of the PSAC is that cotton is subject to the same or similar regulations as other man-made fibers in respect of basic traceability requirements. However, the PSAC notes that some significant factors are omitted and the PSAC is concerned that several major factors must be fully considered and implemented to truly create a level playing field between cotton and synthetic fibers. This specifically includes the modification to the proposed life cycle assessment of all fibers to be from the “origin to full biodegradability.” The PSAC also urges member governments to consider the social and economic impacts of all and any regulation, and to cotton, as it is very often the only source of income for many poor households and represents large percentage of the support to the economies of many developing nations. The PSAC looks forward to supporting the efforts of the ICAC in promoting global cotton consumption
Other Major Discussion Issues
- Cotton could be negatively affected by pending legislation. There is a complex landscape of international environmental policies impacting the cotton textile trade. Legislation in multiple regions could have a very negative impact on cotton and other natural fibers. The “Make the Label Count” campaign is a crucial initiative to address these issues and promote the sustainability and social benefits of natural fiber production, including cotton. The ICAC has taken a leadership position in the effort to ensure cotton has a level playing field and is working closely with industry allies and stakeholders to ensure natural fibers are treated accurately in any new regulations.
- Cotton is making strides toward women’s empowerment in the value chain. There has been collaborative action to close the gender gap in the cotton industry, but much more needs to be done. Empowering women is not only a matter of equity but also essential for achieving sustainable growth, productivity, and innovation within the sector. Women account for 43% of cotton farmers worldwide, so consistent effort, regular data collection, and increased funding are needed to ensure meaningful progress.
- Better data leads to greater trust. To improve data quality and trust, the industry must enhance trust in data collection through better training, consistent protocols, and incentives for accurate reporting. Cost-effective solutions could include incentive-based models, donor funding, and digital verification tools to reduce overall verification costs while maintaining data integrity. Success requires a focus on piloting digital solutions, like blockchain and AI, in small-scale implementations to assess cost-effectiveness before broader adoption, and we must develop incentive models that align data collection with economic benefits and sustainability goals, ensuring active participation from farmers.
- ICAC’s role in the global promotion of cotton. The ICAC focuses on emphasizing the positive aspects of cotton rather than attacking competitors. Use of social media over the last five years has given the ICAC a platform to present positive information about cotton — poverty alleviation, women’s empowerment, biodegradability — to more than 10,000 followers. The organization leads the global celebration of cotton on October 7, World Cotton Day, every year. In 2024, the ICAC co-hosted World Cotton Day in Cotonou, Benin. It was the first time the celebration was held in a country rather than at an international organization, and the first time it was held in the Global South.
- The industry needs to trade cotton based on verifiable, machine-tested fiber characteristics. The Committee for the Commercial Standardization of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC) continues its work to enhance the quality and reliability of instrument testing worldwide. Participation in the CSITC round trials reached a record high in 2024, with 164 instruments evaluated, reflecting growing interest from laboratories. However, expanding membership and participation remain a challenge, particularly in spinning mills, due to limited understanding of the benefits of quality assurance through CSITC Round Trials. Moving forward, targeted strategies — including working with spinning associations and increasing awareness among stakeholders — will be essential to boost participation and achieve broader global adoption for reliable cotton testing to improve cotton trade and ultimately contributing to the competitiveness and sustainability of the global cotton industry.
World Café: Building a Resilient Global Cotton Textile Value Chain
- A new format for the World Café debuted at the 81st Plenary Meeting. As a result of positive feedback, the new format was used again in Tashkent. In the past, all attendees answered the same questions; in the new format, attendees were polled in advanced and chose 10 different topics to discuss. The topics they discussed were: How can we better manage price volatility in cotton? How can we minimize the environmental footprint of cotton cultivation? How can cotton farmers optimize water usage to ensure sustainability? What are the main benefits of producing organic cotton, and what challenges does it need to be overcome? How can the cotton industry communicate its ESG efforts and achievements to consumers effectively? What steps can be taken to boost market share for cotton? What can be done to mitigate the impact of regulations on natural fibers, in terms of competition with synthetic fibers? How can we diversify the use of cotton beyond traditional clothing and textiles to tap into new market segments? In what ways has the involvement of women in cotton farming enhanced community development and family well-being? How can countries identify and target the most suitable funding sources and grant opportunities for cotton-related projects? After discussing for an hour, a representative from each table presented a brief summary of their discussions to the entire audience. The format of this session took advantage of having hundreds of professionals from throughout the cotton textile value chain, encouraging them to interact with each other, share opinions, and search for solutions collaboratively.
World Cotton Research Conference
- The 8th World Cotton Research Conference, WCRC-8, was held immediately after the Plenary Meeting in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, from October 3 to 7, 2024.
2025 Technical Seminar Topic
Recognition of Uzbekistan, the ICAC Plenary Host Country
The Committee thanks the Government and private sector of Uzbekistan for hosting the 82nd Plenary Meeting. The Organizing Committee in Tashkent did an exceptional job providing for the needs of all delegates and facilitating productive discussions, as well as their extensive efforts to support the ICAC.